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derekool
2005-09-05, 21:19
recently using my hammock i have found the gear attic inadequate for any kind of practicle use. its just to small and to oddly shaped :damnmate: I will shift my weight in the night and my hammock willl smite me by hitting me in the head with gear(from the attic). does any one else have this problem? are there any modifications that can be made? or are there any plans for a home made (maybe velcro on) gear attics? :confused:

GregH
2005-09-05, 21:53
I slide it up and out of the way above my hear or over my feet. I bought a cylindrical mesh hanging bag with a clip at REI which I use to hold sunglasses and headlamp. Again, pushing it up to my feet and out of the way.

Just Jeff
2005-09-05, 22:07
I assume you're talking about the HH models. It would be nice if the three pockets were left as one larger pocket...it's really hard to find something useful to put in there!

I just clip a small bag to the loop at the head or foot end, usually. I'm thinking about sewing a small stuff sack near the head end, though.

derekool
2005-09-05, 23:57
it is quite annoying how small and funny shaped the pockets are!! But maybe a little mesh stuff sack from :adore: REI :adore: would be the best option :bawling: has any one cut out there hammock attic?

Seeker
2005-09-06, 00:40
i thought about this issue a lot when i first got my HH. after much fumbling around and trial and error, here's how i arrange stuff now...

i made a small fleece bag for my eyeglasses that stays in the larger part of the 'attic' all the time. my chapstick goes in the little part. i slide it way overhead. keeps two critical items exactly where i can find them when needed.

now, turn your hammock inside out. look really closely at the overhead line inside, at each end, and you'll find a loop. i got two of those mini-biners ("red for the hed, blue for the shue") and clipped them to those loops. helps me figure out which end is which too, when it comes out of the bag. (i also spray painted the very end of the head tie rope with white paint.) i use the bag the hammock came in for odds and ends that i want to keep inside with me, and clip it to the blue biner at the foot end, so it doesn't hit me, but i can undo the drawstring to get at stuff quickly. i put it at the foot end so i can sit up and get to it, or get to it from outside. mostly, it's the contents of my pack's front pocket (repair kit, batteries, tp, spoon, water treatment, compass, lights, etc.) i also use that biner at night to keep my shoes up at that end, when i hang them over the line. just clip a lace through, and they don't scoot down over me.

i don't use the two little plastic clips for much... they don't unhook very easily, and are a real pain. mostly i ignore them. thnking about cutting them out altogether.

i took another mini-biner and use it to clip my photon and/or micromaglite to, so it hangs overhead and i can read/write. it's right there in the little bag at my feet when i crawl in, so there's no 'extra' trip back outside once i'm in for the night. also can clip my thermometer to it. i have a carabiner-style timex watch, with the reversable head, so it goes on my pack strap during the day, and hangs off the overhead line at night. they all hang in a clump in the middle of the hammock, and if i wake up, my light is right there over my belly. another item, to be found exactly where i left it, when i need it.

finally, after much wrestling and laying on a book and a cold water bottle on my leg, i added a silnylon pocket to the inside, up by my right shoulder, to hold a book and a water bottle. (again, water, found exactly where i left it when i need it.)

if i sound anal, i'm not, really... just organized. i learned the benefits of packing the same way every time in the army. prevents lost equipment too, and makes for a more enjoyable trip. on my tank, i had a load plan. everything had a place, everything was in it's place, and everyone else in the platoon did it exactly the same way... we couldn't use a white light, and when you needed something, you'd better have been able to find it. now. yes, it's dark... go find it by feel... made crewmembers interchangeable too... they knew where the whosiwhatsis was on all four tanks... in the tool bag in the left turret sponson box. or wherever. so, i carried it over to my camping life.

hope this helps.

derekool
2005-09-06, 01:47
Thanks seeker i really appriciate that that you took time out of your day to pass on knowledge from one camper to the next. I think I am going to impliment most of these considerations to make own camping "system"!!
do the caribiners*sp cause any problems with the snake skins? how did you attach nylon book and water pouch? and do you have dimensions for that or plans? thank you Seeker probably the best help i have gotten on this site

bird dog
2005-09-06, 04:47
on my tank.

"This one time, in band camp......" Ha...I didnt know you were a Tanker Seeker. That explains it all!!!

Just messing. Thats good advice. I like the part about the red head, blue shoe.

Seeker
2005-09-06, 12:02
BD- yeah... three years with 2ACR on the czech border... 2years of it as a tank platoon leader...

The caribiners are tiny, about 2 inches long and an inch across... they, and my flleece eyeglass pouch, roll up in MY snakeskins no problem... i made them myself, about 7' long, i think, and i guess 2"-2.5" in diameter... seems like i used a piece of silnylon about 8" wide to start with... don't remember. either way, they'd have to be really narrow not to fit the biners inside...

the pouch is about a foot wide (based roughly on the length of my 32oz water bottle laying on its side ) and about 8-9" high, as you look at it mounted... it opens from the right, not the top, so i can slide things in and out naturally (the other way, you'd have to fight with the hammocks creases to find the opening. the top seam is just even with the mosquito netting. if i were to do it over again, i'd move it a little to the left, closer to my feet, and about even with my elbow instead of my upper arm.

i have this little korean lady who runs a sewing shop in town... my advice on all silnylon projects is to find a seamstress and pay her well... what i save by buying silnylon off the $1 rack at walmart, i spend on her... my next project is to cut out a hex tarp... designed it this weekend, and need to make a pattern, but she should be able to knock it out in a couple hours...

bird dog
2005-09-07, 00:26
Seeker, when you say hex tarp are you thinking of something similar to the HH larger hex tarp? I ordered my HH from Tom and should have gotten the bigger tarp free with my order as opposed to the standard fly. I guess its too late now. I think he sells it for like $150, but thats too rich for my blood. Guess I will head to one of the four Super Wal-Marts in town and see if I can find some Sil-nylon. If yours works out, send me some ideas. BD

Just Jeff
2005-09-07, 01:02
JRB 8x8 is $80 and the MacCat Standard is $95 (including stuff sack and seam sealing)...in case those are closer to your budget.

Definitely worth finding some way to get a larger tarp!

Seeker
2005-09-07, 02:18
JJ, thanks for the links... but i'm trying to save money... lots of it.

BD-yes, exactly. for my HH. will be roughly 11' across the points, and each side will be about 5'-8" long... plan on taping a bunch of newspapers together to make a 12' square, and will use a string, pencil, and child to lay it out, just like we used a compass in geometry class... once you get a circle, you pick a spot on the edge to start, and then simply walk the compass along the circumference, making a mark where it touches... if you do it precisely, you'll mark off 6 points exactly where they should be to make a hex. anyway, that will be my pattern, which will then be cut out and traced onto my silnylon. make sense?

my stock fly is fine, but the corner ripped a little ($2 and 10 minutes for my little korean lady to fix after work today) and i've been wanting to experiment with the hex design... here are some rough figures. weights are extrapolated from the 8x10 weight and probably accurate to an ounce or less.

stock fly ??sqft 6 oz. 10' diagonal. a bit tight.
homemade 8 x 10 80sqft 13 oz. 13' diagonal. too long.
11 x 11 121 sqft 20oz. 15.5' diagonal. way too long.
8 x 8 64sqft 10 oz. 11' diagonal. about right.
11' hex 90 sqft 15 oz. 11' diagonal. about right, but more coverage on the sides.

i'll let you know how it turns out. oh, and not to brag, (i know how lucky i am to have a good seamstress) but i can probably get it done for $8 for the material and about $25-$30 for the sewing... won't be as pretty as a commercially made one, but it'll work just fine. not bad for under $40...

peter_pan
2005-09-07, 09:26
Seeker,

Check your math...expected results....drawing the circle on graph paper and imposing the hex, by measuring and inspection yields 58-63 sq feet of coverage.... an full 11 foot diameter circle yields 94+ sq ft.

Pan

Seeker
2005-09-07, 10:58
i still come up with 92 feet... here's my math. one figure i can't check from here (it's at home) is the length of one side of the hex. the circle is almost the same size at the hex inside it... however:

put the hex inside an 11 foot square. the hex's sides are each 5.75 feet long. it touches two sides of the square at points 2.62 ft from one edge, and in the center of the other side at 5.5 ft. the resulting four triangles of material are therefore W 2.62 x L 5.5, divided by two since they're triangles, or 7.2 square feet. since there are 4 of those 'scraps', that's 28.8 sq ft of material. the original square, 11x11, is 121 sq ft... 121 minus 28.8 is 92.2...

but you make these, so you must know how much material goes into them... where am i figuring wrong?

youngblood
2005-09-07, 11:22
... where am i figuring wrong?
The width is not the diameter of the circle... the length is but it goes to a point, not a line with width. Most of these hex tarps are just rectangular tarps that are cut back at an angle along the sides, leaving 6 foot or so lengths along the sides. Starting with a circle makes the geometry more complicated, keep it simple by using rectangular and triangular shapes.

Youngblood

Seeker
2005-09-07, 12:51
well, i just figured it again, using a formula i found on the internet http://www.mathwords.com/a/area_equilateral_triangle.htm.

assuming a hex is made of 6 equilateral triangles (and it is), and assuming a diagonal/max width of 11 feet, each side of each triangle is therefore 5.5 feet. using that formula, the area is 78.6 square feet. so that's gonna weigh about 13 oz or so... not bad...

i was figuring it originally from an 11x11 square with 4 corners cut off...

did we just set a record for getting a thread the farthest off its original question? :biggrin:

txulrich
2005-09-07, 13:52
assuming a hex is made of 6 equilateral triangles (and it is), and assuming a diagonal/max width of 11 feet, each side of each triangle is therefore 5.5 feet. using that formula, the area is 78.6 square feet. so that's gonna weigh about 13 oz or so... not bad...

i was figuring it originally from an 11x11 square with 4 corners cut off...

did we just set a record for getting a thread the farthest off its original question? :biggrin:

Don't forget the weight of your seams, tie out material, seam sealing, guy lines and additional stakes. All small, but they add up!

Peace,
Joe

Just Jeff
2005-09-07, 17:06
Hex tarps aren't hexes in the sense that each side is the same length...they just have six tie-out points (4 stakes and 2 ridgeline points). Think of a hex stretched along the ridgeline so it's longer than it is wide.

For example, the MacCat Standard is 125"x84". The 7.4 oz Micro is 120"x62".

Seeker
2005-09-07, 18:05
wow... i never considered the possibility of an elongated hex... that would explain a few things, eh? lighter tarp, for one thing... thank you!

(this is one of those things hitting me between the eyes now, and i'm saying "why didn't I think of that!") :hmmmm2:

Rosaleen
2005-09-08, 07:49
I wish I'd thought of this sooner-

Have any of you who is unhappy with the small pockets considered picking out the stitching that forms the divisions in the pocket? It might be tedious, but I suspect it is doable. (Pull the mesh pocket out through the foot opening to access it.) I keep foam earplugs, and my Petzl Zipka headlamp, sometimes tissues or a hankie in the small pockets. When I'm not using my air pillow, it is in the large pocket section.

Seeker
2005-09-08, 14:02
i actually thought about cutting the whole thing out and replacing it with a larger one, something like a desk saddlebag my daughter uses at school... just a panel about 2' x 1', with a pocket on each side, that you could throw over the center line. that's what inspired me to just sew a pocket (ok, i can't sew... 'have a pocket sewn') onto the side of the hammock...

but i kept it for my glasses and chapstick... daughter likes it too, when she sleeps out in it in the backyard, to put her light in... more like the pocket in her tent, i guess...

GregH
2005-09-08, 22:54
[QUOTE=bird dogI ordered my HH from Tom and should have gotten the bigger tarp free with my order...[/QUOTE]

Call Tom back and ask if you can trade. If the tarp is unused, thus he can sell it as new, he'll probably exchange it for you. HH will charge you shipping but that's a cheap way to get the bigger tarp. I have the hex now and boy is it big!

derekool
2005-09-09, 01:29
hey we are back on subject... lol that migh be somthing to try with the stitching or like seeker said sew a simple pocket over the ridge line :arty: thanks for your input

CanoeCamper
2005-09-09, 13:04
i don't use the two little plastic clips for much... they don't unhook very easily, and are a real pain. mostly i ignore them. thnking about cutting them out altogether.
I'm glad I'm not the only one who hates those clips.