View Full Version : Rain Fly MOD...

Woods Walker
2006-11-18, 22:25
Here is a photo of my HH with standard rain fly attached to the hammock ropes:




Some time ago I talked with Tom Hennessy and he told me that pitching the rain fly on a separate ridgeline worked great. So I finally got around to testing it. Worked fantastic. I pitched a 8x10 sil rain fly on an angle. To allow for fast set up and adjustment I used a sliding knot much like the system on the original hammock fly. I use this system often with all my ridgelines as it allows adjustments. The knot is a version of a Prusik or friction knot.



The coverage of the new fly is much improved of the standard factory fly. The Equinox sil tarp is about 75 bucks.



Here is the best part of pitching the tarp separate. During the night the hammock ropes tend the stretch resulting in a droopy fly. But with itís own ridgeline the tarp stays tight as seen in the below photo:


This mod adds another few minutes to the set up time but with a sliding knot and loops on both the ridgeline and tie off with mini carabineers I need only tie one additional knot.

Just Jeff
2006-11-18, 22:31
Great idea. I always hang my tarp separately, but I never considered using prussiks on a separate ridgeline under the tarp. Great - now you got my wheels turning about gear when I'm supposed to be doing real work! Thanks! :D

Woods Walker
2006-11-18, 22:48
Works great and this way I don't need to tie knots. Have the friction knots pre attached to the Ridgeline like the way Tom has them on the main hammock ropes. I can then adjust the tarp to cover the hammock in seconds. Works good for any tarp set up like a flying A-frame

2006-11-19, 12:22
I thought I read somewhere that using a ridgeline under a silnyl tarp could result in premature failure of the fabric touching the ridgeline as it abrades with the wind. Is this actually a worry? I've been tying my tarp (stock explorer ultralight a-sym) directly to the support trees, with guys off the corners, but I assume that a ridgeling would take some of those damn wrinkles out. I guess if tom himself recommends it, it couldn't be terrible, but I want my stuff to last as long as possible. What do you think?:bandit:

bird dog
2006-11-19, 12:33
Turbohammock, Im with you on the wrinkles. Ive done everything except use a seperate ridge line to get rid of those things and nothing works. I will be trying out a seperate ridge line next time.

Ive never heard what you propose, but I guess with long, long term use repeated friction will degrade any fabric. I wouldnt worry about it. It Tom recommends it, then your probably safe, but then Im no guru.

Still waiting for my MacCat, and winter break is just around the corner. YEA! :congrats:


2006-11-19, 12:46
Another problem with using a tarp with a seam on the ridgeline would be abrasion of the seam sealer in high winds.

But I do like all of those tieouts, it probably spreads out the force nicely along the side tieouts. However, how much extra force does it put on the top (ridgeline) tieouts, especially from the continual down force being applied by the extra tieouts? Seems like it would work great in heavy winds, but I wouldn't want my ridgeline tieouts exposed to that night after night (well the HH tarp ones anyway).

-Excited about doing nothing over break (kidding BD!)

2006-11-19, 12:58
I use a ridgeline of nylon cord (mason's line) with a tautline hitch to get rid of the wrinkle in the tarp - otherwise I use the stock HH set-up. I considered the possibility of wear along the line, but I figured that wouldn't be a real issue for a number of reasons:
1) I think the wear would show up early enough to be able to replace the tarp before you had any sort of catastrophic failure,
2) I don't tighten the ridgeline so much that there's much friction to begin with,
3) my historical purchasing patterns tell me I'll get something new long before my old stuff actually wears out (good stuff lasts a long time).

Despite all that, I figure I'll also experiment with setting up the tarp independent of the hammock this winter

Plus, I can just about guarantee I'll get my MacCat before the HH stock tarp has a chance to wear out. I might even get my MacCat before BirdDog gets his!:bootyshak

Just Jeff
2006-11-19, 14:14
I've heard of that but never seen it. If it were an issue, you could always put the ridgeline above the tarp, with a slight cat cut on the tarp. Or with a diagonal tarp the corners might pull the centerline down enough that there would be a gap between the line and tarp. That would eliminate abrading and still allow you to easily adjust the tarp's position.

Woods Walker
2006-11-19, 21:43
I have never had an issue with a ridgeline and hurting my Sil tarps. I think it helps as with a Friction knot I can adjust the stress on the main ties and use the ridgeline to offer support for the whole tarp like a frame of a roof. I have used this set up in very strong winds and the tarp is rock solid. It does not move around in the wind. Solid....So no abrasion. I put 3 tie offs on each side. This also helps keep the tarp from flapping.

Oh Tom said he tied off the tarp seperate. I just guessed he ment Ridgeline as it adjusts so easy with the friction knot just like on the main Hammock lines.

2006-11-19, 23:34
I don't think you'll get enough wear from the abrasion to worry about.
If the tarp and line are fairly tight, you wouldn't get much movement between them anyway.
Also from my own experience with tarps you'd have to leave it up in the same position for quite awhile before you'd have any problems.

This is just my belief, but I think I'm correct.

2006-11-20, 00:04
It will work just as well without a full ridgeline under the tarp...Just tie off to the tarp ties that correspond to the ridge line direct to the trees.... saves weight... saves wear and tear on the tarp...

BTW, tying to the trees is the gospel we have been preaching for years to avoid HH tarp sag....

Tying to the trees at a point 6-8 inches below the point that the HH suspension line is tie is a great storm set up, as the hammock drops when weighted, and the resultant 6 inch clearance to the bug net is about perfect to balance evaporation of condensation and storm protection.


Woods Walker
2006-11-20, 00:15
Saves weight?

You guys counting 10 feet of line? But I have done it with out the Ridgeline. It was just harder to adjust and ment more Knots. Also without a ridgeline the tarp sags more in the rain. I wonder how it could be adjusted fast with out a re tie if I screw it up? Must be some kinda knot out there for when I don't use a Ridgeline. But still have never seen any wear and tear form the years I used a Ridgeline as an A frame tarp shelter. I could put the Ridgeline on top of the tarp but then lose the snow load / Wind support of the line.

Here is my standard flying A-frame set up with the same Sil tarp and ridgeline. Oh yes that is a wood stove you see!




In this case I did not use the Friction knot.


Yea the stove is 3 lbs but packs down to a lap top:


I can cook under that tarp and dry my boots in rain/snow.Try that with a soda can stove.


Look everyone. The worlds First heated Golite poncho under 3 lbs with stove.



Also using ridgeline. Here is that stove packed.




Kinda crazy......But the real point is I have never seen a Ridgeline hurt a Sil tarp and have been doing this for years for non hammock camps. I guess if the tarp moved crazy in the wind but a good pitch this will not happen.

Just Jeff
2006-11-20, 00:54
Haha - If I were carrying that stove I wouldn't worry about 10' of line, either!

But yeah - I count the weight of everything in my pack. HYOH and do whatever works for you.

Woods Walker
2006-11-20, 01:07
Just Jeff

It's all good. In first 3 seasons I am a Hammock guy that will at times pack a pop can stove to cut back on the load.

Here are some I made.


This is my first try with the Tarp set up over the whole hammock.


I set it up like Pan says without the Ridgeline. It worked ok too but held off for almost a year to test the Ridgeline with the larger tarp. I like the UL thing. But when the cold winter or very late fall hits and I am out for a week forget about it. UL is not the way to got. I am willing to pack in 10 lbs for a heated shelter. I like my 4 season system for the HH but not for longer winter back country trips.

Yea this thing with stove comes in at 10 lbs but when it is 5 outside and snowing the 10 lbs seem less. I kinda change with the season. Fast and light in the warmer months. Slower in the winter. Spend more time in camp anyways. But enjoy the Hammock camping the most. The coldest I have done with the HH was about 10 or so. Just not fun sitting in a hammock for too long when snowed in. But the comfort when sleeping...oh man..


2006-11-20, 10:37
Yup... I would not worry about a few oz either with that rig.... especially hauling it in the pick up truck shown in one of the pictures... nice base camp set up.

Woody, I don't understand why you are double tarping in the picure where you descibe your UL Rig...Did I miss something?

Nice pics...

FWIW, Why not use a wall tent over your hammock with the stove offset towards a corner? Then you would have the best of both worlds for a winter camp.


2006-11-20, 13:48
Woods Walker,

Are those a TiGoat stoves? They sure look like 'em.

SGT Rock
2006-11-20, 14:41
Well at least you like hammocks and alcohol stoves :D

Actually, that looks like a cool stove. A little more than I would want to carry.

Just a thought - but could you use some flexable exaust system to make something a little lighter and shorter that would pipe smoke out where ever you want? Seems the chimney is way taller than it needs to be.

2006-11-20, 18:19
Well at least you like hammocks and alcohol stoves :D

Actually, that looks like a cool stove. A little more than I would want to carry.

Just a thought - but could you use some flexable exaust system to make something a little lighter and shorter that would pipe smoke out where ever you want? Seems the chimney is way taller than it needs to be.
With that small of diameter chimney pipe he might need that height to get a good draw. If you don't have enough height many stoves tend to smother themselves and leak smoke.
But he probably just doesn't want the smoke in his face.

Woods Walker
2006-11-20, 18:22

“Yup... I would not worry about a few oz either with that rig.... especially hauling it in the pick up truck shown in one of the pictures... nice base camp set up.”

I have a photo of the packed stove on a digital scale showing 1 lb 11oz (rounded up .3 oz) in the back few posts. I believe the Golite poncho tarp is around 9 oz so the total weight with ropes is about. 2.4 lbs. I don’t need my truck to pack that. Infact it comes in about 10 oz more than my Zip stove. The reason for the truck is that the shelter photo was taken in my yard. I have two trees that are often used to test set up my shelters. I tried a few poncho tarp setups. Even worked on a longer A-frame pitch:



Still a bit conflicted on the set up. I liked the longer A-frame pitch with front bleak that I got from Ron Bell (MLD) back when he just had an EBAY store. However the Golite poncho makes for a very narrow but long A-frame. If packed I would just use a hiking pole or stick rather than the aluminum test pole. The higher A-frame allows me to sit up and sleep at an angle. I am thinking of other tarp configurations and if anyone has some good ideas I am interested in any input. So believe it or not this is a cold weather winter day pack emergency shelter that fits in this 1050 cc day pack and the total is 5.5 lbs for everything including military E&E pack and all other emergancy gear. Here is a photo of the whole daypack system.


My main intent with this set up was to allow a fire inside the tarp. When tested inside the tarp it increase the overall temperature by a great deal and lets me have a warm place to ride out a storm and dry off.

“Woody, I don't understand why you are double tarping in the picure where you descibe your UL Rig...Did I miss something?”

Yes I forgot to tell the whole story. It was raining cats and dogs for the whole trip. Water would run off the standard Hennessy factory tarp right down my back. So I remembered the conversation with Tom and experimented on tarp setups with my 8x10 Equinox Sil tarp. After a few tries I came up the pictured setup. So I just kept the standard tarp attached.

“FWIW, Why not use a wall tent over your hammock with the stove offset towards a corner? Then you would have the best of both worlds for a winter camp”

Funny you should say that. I know a guy that did make something just like it. Here is a photo he posted on another MB.


I agree that it is a great idea for longer winter stay overs. Nothing is more comfortable than a good hammock. I am skilled with building metal stoves. Made some nice tent stoves and cool hobos with mods but when it comes to sewing I am hopeless. Makes me envious of guys like you. I have only heard good things about your products.

One the issue of base camp I do use them a lot in winter. I will take the sil nylon 4-man tipi, Downmat 9DLX and my home made more air tight wood stove with robber and roll up pipe. But the total weight for this easy living is nothing I would want to hike in for 15 miles. I set up closer to my car or use the Pulk sled. I do have what could be called a UL winter heated shelter. This comes in at a total weight of 6lbs with shelter and collapsible stove system. Made of Sil nylon and packs down spooky small.



The roll up stove is a proto type of a TI goat stove. Was sent to me for testing. The take down stove is a Kifaru.

SGT Rock.

You bet I like the Hammock and enjoy the weight savings of the alcohol stove. For fast cooking and fool proof design most alcohol stove are winners. But I often camp and hike in CT, upstate NY and Maine in winter. Been out in –20 with wind chill much lower. So I am looking for area heat that will not be subject to weather. I take stock in the value of reducing my pack weight however I don't put my tooth brush on the scale :) . I like taking parts of what everyone has to offer. Here is a test burn of that roll up stove.


Your point about the length of the pipe is understood for cooking. However I am looking for heat. The longer pipe provides fantastic draft. Also the stove and pipe often turn cherry red. The pipe rolls up and is around 2 oz per foot. Plus I want the smoke and sparks away from the shelter.


So it packs down to 2 x 14 inches. Nothing I have found is lighter or more hiker pack able.

2006-11-20, 19:07
Could you use the flexible dryer vent tube with this stove. Colapses like a slinky and doesnt weight much. Could hang it up on anything, even a trek pole.

Woods Walker
2006-11-20, 21:55
No. It would burn out. Even the SS pipe turns cherry red.