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TeeDee
2007-03-07, 21:39
Anybody here use a crossbow?

After a long time of looking for my "perfect" quiver, I finally found the materials I needed to make my own.

Needed versatility. With the one I finally made, I can:

1. carry between 18 to 30 bolts or more plus extra fletching, field points and broadheads - all in quiver.

2. hand carry with handle, handle converts in seconds so that,
3. can wear at hip, or
4. can wear over shoulder, or
5. can wear across back.

6. Quiver can be closed on both ends so that it can be used to send bolts with extra fletching and field points and broadheads through the mail/FedEx/UPS or checked with the airline (if you are feeling real confident - I usually just FedEx or UPS ahead and pickup at destination and do the same coming back - not worried about security, just the airline's record in losing checked luggage. Don't mind losing clothes, but cannot lose bolts and broadheads :afraid: ).

6. Quiver is water proofed with silicone so that water has no effect on quiver. With ends closed it will keep out rain - if submerged, water will seep in through the end closures. Brief submerging no problem. Quiver is unaffected by submerging for any duration, but contents may eventually be affected by water. I use carbon bolts, so even submerging would not affect my contents.

If anybody is interested I can post directions. A longer version could also be made and used by those who like the vertical bow. You would only have to pay for the silicone and solvent for treating the quiver. All else can be free.

Turk
2007-03-07, 22:10
what no pics?!


what an outrage :biggrin:
sounds awesome. sign me up.

Take-a-knee
2007-03-07, 22:59
I would like to see it, I bought an Excalibur last year since they are now legal to hunt with in Georgia.

TeeDee
2007-03-08, 10:07
Please ignore the last sentence of my post - chalk it up to over enthusiasm and advancing age :biggrin:

I will post directions and attempt pics with my $20.00 digital camera later today.

Take-A-Knee - my current crossbow is the Excaliber Pheonix - I followed the KISS principle. Recurve bows are so much simpler than compounds. Excaliber achieves outstanding performance in their products. Just wish they could make the stock about 6 lbs lighter.

Take-a-knee
2007-03-08, 11:55
Tee Dee, I think mine is a Phoenix also, 175#? I've read on the net that some individual sells laminated wood stocks for Excalibur crossbows, I think they are supposed to make the bow quieter, I don't know if they are any lighter.

TeeDee
2007-03-08, 18:59
Materials:

1. Erdie kraft mailing tube. The Erdie mailing tube is ideal because the end caps are locking and are a good quality plastic that will last a long time and many closing/opening cycles.

They can be found here:

http://www.erdie.com/

They have several sizes. I suggest either the 24" or 36" length. The 36" you will have to cut down to the desired length. After cutting down to the desired size, cut 3 new locking tab holes. You will probably want either the 3" or 4" ID tube. They have 2 wall thicknesses, pick whichever you deem appropriate for you. The 4" comes in only the thicker wall thickness.

2. 1/2" or 3/4" nylon webbing. 1.5 yard is sufficient.

3. 2 D-rings to fit the webbing.

4. 2 plastic ladder-lock side release buckles to fit the webbing or 4 1" ID nickel plated steel rings.

NOTE. Items 2, 3 and 4 can be purchased as a single item in a dollar store that carries pet collars or in any pet store. Buy 2 cat collars. You get the webbing, the D-rings and the plastic ladder-lock side release buckles. You will have to take the collars apart and resew to properly use the buckles. The cat collar buckles are really good for this since they are contoured and lay
flatter against the tube. I like the steel ring buckles even better.

5. 4' of para cord.

6. 4' of small diameter cord, about 1/2 the diameter of the para cord. Guy line cord is usually good for this.

7. 2 micro-carabiners. I like the BPL wire gate micro-carabiners, but any that are of the same size will work.

8. silicone sealant/caulking

9. solvent for the silicone sealant. I use low odor mineral spirits.

Procedure:

After obtaining the Erdie mailing tube in the desired ID and length, dissolve the silicone sealant in the solvent. Make sure the mixture is fairly thin. Paint the mailing tube inside and then outside with the silicone sealant. You want the mixture fairly thin so that the silicone soaks as deep as possible into the kraft tube.

Let the silicone set for at least 24 hours and even better for a few days, maybe a week. If you are going to apply a second coat allow at least 48 hrs between coats. Set a fan to blow down the tube to really dry and cure the silicone inside the tube.

While waiting for the silicone to dry and cure, prepare the webbing, D-rings and buckles. Picture 1

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/teex-photos/quiver/cat.jpg

shows a cat collar modified for a double ring buckle. Where I have the 2 rings, you would place one end of the side release buckle if you decide to use one of those. The cat collar side release buckles are good because they are contoured and will lay flatter against the tube. You will need 2 sets of webbing, D-ring and buckle (your choice of buckle). Make the webbing long enough to go around the tube with enough to thread through the buckle and enough of a loose end to pull the webbing tight.

Once the silicone is thoroughly dry and cured, cinch one webbing around each end of the tube about 4" to 6" from the end. The distance from the end is up to you, whatever you desire and find that works best for you. Cinch the webbing as tight as you can pull it. I doubt that you will be able to pull it tight enough to collapse the tube. When you put the second webbing on and tighten it, make sure that the D-ring is lined up with the the D-ring of the first webbing.

Take 2 12" lengths of the small cord and tie loops, use maybe a carrick bend or one of the variations on the sheet bend. Use the loops to tie Prussik knots on the para cord. I call these Prussik Loops. Clip the Micro carabiners into the Prussik Loops and then one into each of the D-rings. Pull the Prussik Loops to tighten the para cord between the D-rings to form a handle to carry the Tube.

Drill a small hole in the side of the Erdie end cap interior section - not the outer wall. The hole should be just large enough for the small cord. Take 2 12" lengths of the small diameter cord. Thread the cord through the hole and tie a double overhand stopper knot. This knot will keep the cord from coming back through the hole. Tie a small loop in the other end of the cord and clip into a micro-carabiner. Repeat for the other end of the tube.

The Quiver is essentially finished. If you want sections in the tube to hold extra fletching, the broadheads and field points or whatever, then find a plastic bottle that will fit tightly inside the tube. A Plastic Folgers Coffee can/bottle works nicely for the 4" tube. Cut the plastic bottle in half and force the bottom half down the tube to form a section on one end of the tube for the bolts, the bolt hole. The other end can be used for extra fletching.

For broadheads, I use packing foam. The kind that looks like Styrofoam but doesn't crush and has an oily feel to it. Get a piece about 2" thick and cut a round section that fits tightly in the tube. You can push the broadheads into the foam (without the cutting vanes) and force the foam down the end of the tube opposite the bolts. That gives you 3 possible sections in the tube: 1. bolt hole, 2. section for extra fletching and 3. another section for the broadheads.

If desired you can take 6 small pieces, say 1" square, and cover the locking tab holes in the tube to prevent water entering through the lock tab holes.

As described above, the para cord is set as a carrying handle. Adjust the Prussik loops so that the length of para cord between the loops will fit your waist, unclip one of the micro-carabiners, usually the one opposite the bolt hole. and clip the micro-carabiner to the D-ring on the other end, now top, of the tube. You can now carry the quiver at your hip using the para cord as a belt. For shoulder carry re-adjust the length of the para cord between the Prussik loops to fit your shoulder and you're set. For back carry, one micro-carabiner should be clipped to each D-ring and adjust the length
of the para cord to fit around your chest and enough to carry the quiver comfortably with the top at your desired shoulder.

To ship the quiver, remove the webbing straps, para cord and micro-carabiners and store inside one end of the tube.

I have tried PVC pipe. It is stronger than the Kraft mailing tube, but also many times heavier. Carry a quiver made from PVC for very long and it will get very, very heavy.

The mailing tube quiver isn't as light as one made of Cordura and plastic tubes, but it is far more versatile and provides more protection to the contents. If you use the 4" ID tube, you can carry sufficient bolts, fletching and broadheads for a long hunt far from home base. If most of the bolts have no fletching, then you can carry a lot and use the stored fletching to fletch as needed. I use the fletching that is heat shrink. Slip on, heat the water (I carry a bi-metal thermometer with the fletching), shrink and you're good to go.

I have made quivers from both 3" ID and 4" ID tubes.

Here are pictures of the finished product:

First the end cap with the cord attached (I used a small ring to ensure that the cord didn't come loose):

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/teex-photos/quiver/ENDCAP.jpg

Looking down on a 3" ID tube with bolts:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/teex-photos/quiver/new.jpg

4" tube, finished, from the side:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/teex-photos/quiver/new-2.jpg

Detail of the carabiner, D-ring and ring buckle:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/teex-photos/quiver/new-3.jpg

Another detail of the carabiner, D-ring and buckle:

http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q206/teex-photos/quiver/new-1.jpg

TeeDee
2007-03-08, 19:07
Tee Dee, I think mine is a Phoenix also, 175#? I've read on the net that some individual sells laminated wood stocks for Excalibur crossbows, I think they are supposed to make the bow quieter, I don't know if they are any lighter.

Yes that's the Phoenix. Great crossbow. Did you get the rope pull also? I have cocked a few times without aid - really shows me how much that rope aid is worth it's price. Have the Krankaroo also, but much prefer the rope aid. I have seen pictures of wood stocks on the Excalibur forums. Don't think they are any lighter. Noise doesn't much concern me now, if the quarry hears the bow then I'm looking for new quarry anyway.

Take-a-knee
2007-03-08, 20:00
The quiver is way cool. The cat collar thing is much appreciated, I'm always needing those buckles. Yes, I bought the rope cocker, I tried cocking by hand and it killed my accuracy.

TeeDee
2007-03-08, 21:50
Yes, I bought the rope cocker, I tried cocking by hand and it killed my accuracy.

I know the experience :biggrin: and only too well.

If you, or anybody, decides to make their own quiver like this, I hope it's enjoyed as much as I like mine.