Tarps modified for a Kifaru type stove

[Turk]

Hey folks.

So ... I need a good DIY project... Here's what I am thinking.

Could you take an oversized hammock tarp, pitch it right to the ground on 2 sides and close one of the tree ends in, creating a 3 sided room.

Then mate this tarp with a small Kifaru type wood stove?

I know there are several kifaru stove users on this forum. And also people that have used the tipi tents. Could anyone help me out with design elements?

Specifically how does one construct the fire retardant chimney hole through the tarp? That would be key.
Also how big a tarp would you need?
With the smallest model kifaru stove, how big a space could you heat to a reasonable temperature.

I am looking to develop a truly winterized hammock set up, with below tarp living space.

[Turk]

I am thinking that to start i will need a large cheap non-functional mock-up version. Have to explore some of the dimensions and maybe build a mockup cardboard kifaru stove (haven't bought one yet).

Can anyone help with suggestions of where to start. I got into some math... and then got a headache yesterday and didnt accomplish anything more than sweeping out the garage floor and clearing a design area.

I need to throw some starting numbers together and see what it looks like. I have a very large painters drop sheet that I can cut up to build the mock up.
But I need a starting point. Hopefully larger than necessary so that I could always scale down and use the same material.

thoughts?

[Take-a-knee]

Turk, Titanium goat well retrofit their stove jack to your shelter, or they'll just sell you the stove jack. They make a way cool stove also from titanium. I would just use a tipi and a full-length Z-rest with a short Prolite thermarest. Maybe a synthetic overquilt for the Rock Wren.

[JAK]

Very cool Turk. The stovepipe can be on an angle, so that there is more distance for it to give off heat before exiting. As for the fireproof chimney hole, I think they use a square of kevlar or fibreglass cloth with a hole for the stovepipe. It also helps if the stovepipe is cooler by the time it exits. I am not sure how the Kifaru guy make the nylon reasonably fire retardant. The old duck cotton tents were soaked in alum. Do you think that might work for nylon, at least to slow it down?

[TeeDee]

Turk - for the chimney hole, you could try one of those flame protector pads that the plumbers use. Sgt Rock bought one recently. Here's one:

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...31400&pad=true

It is actually black, non-asbestos and holds up to direct flame. They specify 2,000 deg F, so it could insulate the chimney well enough. You should be able to sew it easy enough. At 9" by 12" you may need 2 - don't know. At $15, they are inexpensive enough to try. Sealing the pad around the chimney would be interesting. No ideas on how you could do that.

[Iceman]

Turk, a thought, keep the chimney in the structure as long as possible to steal any leftover heat...IE: place the stove at the far end of the structure, chimney exits tarp near the apex. This also allows you to grab radiant heat from the stove/chimney to help dry stuff hanging around the chimney. Exhaust gasses will be cooler, sparks hopefully spent, less tarp risk?

[dropkick]

Turk,
Just a thought - don't know if it'll help you at all but thought I'd tell you how we used to warm (floorless) tents without a stove.

You dig a small trench in the ground and lay a flat piece of steel overtop of it leaving a (heck with this -- I'm drawing a picture instead)



Occasionally we would have 2 pieces of steel (as in picture) to make loading the fire easier, but usually we loaded from outside or just lifted the plate (smokey).

It's a simple set up and doesn't actually need to be very large to warm most tents. (I've seen it done with a #10 coffee can, cut open and flattened)

[dropkick]

Oh got to excited with drawing and forgot to put in my 2 bits about a stove jack.
Some are metal, some are fiberglass, and in the old days some were made of leather or asbestos cloth.
I'd try making one out of fiberglass cloth for flexibility.

Spark arrestor - make holes in the top section of the pipe, or make the last section of hardware cloth and put a cap above it.
The air coming from the sides usually burns out or extinguishes the sparks. Don't put screen over the top of the pipe, it limits the airflow too much.

[JAK]

An idea you might consider is to use some swivel fittings on the hammock ropes going to the trees, and then strap yourself in somehow and rig up a long rope and counterweight. You want to turn fairly slowly, but evenly. I think you see where I'm going with this.

[Turk]

Okay, some great ideas given. Much thanks.
I didn't even know about the Ti-goat stove!! That thing is sweet.
I just don't know about a round stove for practical use though. Will have to
read some of the reviews about it. DEFINATELY interested though considering
the weight and dimensions.

I am glad to learn something of these chimney issues. I got re-thinking my whole design because of some points brought up here about not wasting heat and getting the pipe to exit higher in the tarp.

So I am now thinking, a simple parachute hammock. ) I have the ENO single.
Far more practical than a bottom entry, and greatly reducing the head space I would need on one side of the tarp - hence a smaller overall tarp.

I am also thinking maybe some cat cuts to get good stiff tension and also help support the pipe better through a stiffer jack in high winds.

Here is concept 2 :

[Turk]

[Turk]

I dont think this type of shelter becomes weight efficient until you
add an extra person to the equation.

[dropkick]

[JAK]

Great illustrations.
I think that idea from dropkick has the most potential to provide the most radiant and convective heat to a hammock dweller. Perhaps too much, but if it was a small stove, or after it went out, it might be just right. Hot rocks under a hammock inside a tarp might be very comfy also. Turks illustrations seem most suitable for sticking an arm or toe out to fire up the stove for a cup of coffee before warming or waking up completely. Of course there is a continuum, as the stove could be semi buried, and/or partially underneath the hammock. When using a stove with a hammock some sort of reflector might be handy also, either to block direct heat or reflect indirect heat back more evenly, or some sort of heat sink to spread the heat from the stove over a larger area.

[dropkick]

Was sitting by the computer waiting for some other people to get ready. To occupy my time I drew another picture.
This is just an expansion on my last drawing and suggestion.
-Does seem to solve most of the problems that I could think of (sure I missed some though).



What do you think?